If you walk away from Jaipur’s magnificent forts and you travel south, you will notice a change in the atmosphere. The land becomes wilder, the houses are painted in the mellowest shades of blue, and the quiet of the Aravalli hills dominates the scene. That is Bundi. Most tourists hurry to the famous stepwell in Abhaneri. However, those who understand the “authentic” Rajasthan come here. The “City of Step Wells” is what Bundi is called, and right at the center of its maze of alleys is the Chand Bouri step well that has not only supplied the city with water but also helped keep the city’s secrets over the years.
In comparison to the huge, wide tanks that are typical of other cities, the Chand Bouri Bundi is, in fact, a charming little wonder. It lies just a stone’s throw from the old city centre, less than a couple of minutes’ walk from the magnificent Raniji kiBaori. This baori (stepwell) dates back to a time when water was of utmost importance. Thus, in the desert, a well was not simply an opening in the ground, but a refuge from the scorching sun and dry heat.
Why that particular baori? It is said that the word “Chand” (which means Moon) was chosen to denote the moonlight’s effect of illuminating the water inside the well shaft, thus making the water sparkle like a silver coin. People around there say that the longer one gazes at that image, the more one can see the history of the Nikumbha kings, who were the first to bring order to this land.
The architectural details of Chand Bouri baori are practically a lesson on ancient engineering. The most famous Abhaneristepwell is a wide pyramid, but the Bundi Chand Baori is deep and narrow. It has a “linear” design, i.e. the stairs go straight down in a dramatic, focused path. When you go down, the temperature goes down by almost 5 to 6 degrees. Such an effect was purposely done. The builders used thick sandstone blocks, which absorb the cool moisture from the water below.
The walls are not simply flat stones. There are small, arched niches and shrines lining the walls. They were not just for beautification. At each landing, worship is made in the presence of spots that were specially set aside; the Chand Bouri Bundi was essentially a temple as well as a water well.
The shafts embody traditional Rajput patterns, elephants turning their trunks inward and fragile lotus flowers. The physical layout of the area is very smart; it is hidden among tall stone buildings so that the water remains in the shade, thus the water does not dry up in the scorching Rajasthan summers. Looking down into the 100-foot deep water is quite scary, but the uniformity of the steps forming a repeated pattern is flattering.
Exploring Chand Bouri, Rajasthan, offbeat is an activity for the traveler who is not a fan of crowds. No, there aren’t any loud tour guides or souvenir shops here. It is a simple, quiet place. I also remember that it was a Tuesday morning and I was sitting on the second landing. The only sound was the cooing of pigeons nesting in the stone cracks. This is a part of the hidden step wells Rajasthan Chand Bouri collection, which is just one of the over 50 such wells that exist in the city. Raniji ki Baori is the “Queen,” while Chand Baori is more like a quiet guardian.
The culture here is very reverential on a deep level. It is possible to spot an elderly lady scattering some flower petals in the water or an artist from the neighbourhood drawing the arcades. The inhabitants of this place carry themselves with a dignified serenity. It is not that they see the well as a monument; they see it as a living part of their town. In case you are willing to experience the “spirit” of Rajasthan, you simply take these stone ways without shoes and sense the freshness and moisture of the ground.
If you’re into photography, the Chand Bouri Bundi photo guide really comes down to one thing: light. The most beautiful images are those taken when the sun is at its zenith, which would be around 12:00 noon. It is at this time of day that the sunlight penetrates the bottom and creates very distinct, geometric shadows of the stairs. Get a wide-angle lens to show the shaft’s depth.
If you want to give it an otherworldly feel, highlight the “Anderi Ujala” (light and dark) play of the side corridors. Chand Bouri step well legends and myths reveal that a secret passage was once a link between the well and the Taragarh Fort. Nobody has found that passage so far, but the deep, dark nooks of the lower levels almost make you think that this story could be true and then some.
To explore your trip fully, refer to this Chand Bouri Bundi travel itinerary. Your morning can be spent at the Taragarh Fort, and then, around noon, you can descend into the city to locate the step well. The best season for a visit to Chand Bouri baori is October to March. The reason is that during these months, the air is fresh, and the stone surface remains cool. If you want to go down, do not choose the monsoon season, as the stairs can get very slippery. What do I suggest? Put on shoes that have a good grip and bring a small flashlight. The lower levels are really dark. It is a place that invites you to be very cautious, but it gives you back a silence that you will cherish for a long time.
Here is a brief Chand Bouri Bundi travel itinerary to assist you:
8:00 AM: From the Taragarh Fort, watch the city wake up.
11:00 AM: Wander along the blue houses of the old city.
12:30 PM: Get to Chand Baori just in time for the best light for photos.
2:00 PM: Go to a nearby rooftop cafe such as Krishna Chai for a cup of spicy tea.
4:00 PM: To compare the two styles, go to Raniji ki Baori.
