As you wind your way down the steep and twisted roads through the Kandhamal district, you will begin to notice the fragrance of damp ground and crushed leaves. After a time, you will arrive at the location where the large silver oak trees grow over the roadway. This is where the coffee garden of Daringbadi is located. Before entering into the green leafy rows of coffee plants, you will find a secluded stream in a nearby area that local residents use as a small lake for recreational purposes.
This stream is about 5 kilometers away from the primary downtown area. What is the significance of this stream? Some believe that the water from the hills has certain unique mineral contents that aid in developing very large and naturally sweet coffee beans. I recall speaking with Siba, an elder at the entrance gate, who explained to me that the mist given off by this water helps to protect the leaves against being scorched by direct exposure to sun during the summer months. This is a very unpretentious location where the combination of water and forest give us our morning cup of coffee.
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ToggleThe coffee gardens in Daringbadi differ from the flat fields of the plains. They are forested multi-level areas. The area is very rugged and is at an elevation of approximately 3000′ in the Eastern Ghats Mountains. The large trees that cover this area provide a protective cover over the delicate coffee plants that are growing underneath them. However, if you examine the trunks of the trees closely enough you will also see the numerous large and thick green vines running up the trunks trying to reach the sky. This area is where coffee and pepper are grown in a perfect combination.
The vines of black pepper grow on the trees for support, while the coffee plants are growing in the shade of the trees. I was there on a Tuesday in late January when I was able to see and smell the wonderful combination of the red coffee cherries and the fresh spices ready to be harvested. To stand in a world so full of green is an overwhelming experience and one of the absolute best places in Daringbadi to feel the power of earth.
Kandhamal is an example of organic farming done properly; the quality of the coffee produced is viewed as superior compared to any other coffee produced in the region, and the organic farm produces high-quality coffee while honouring the forest. Coffee growing in Kandhamal dates back to the 1970’s when the forest and soil of Kandhamal began protecting and managing the coffee plants. The cultural aspect of the people working in Kandhamal is one of serenity; there is an elegance in how the tribal farmers’ work the land. The farmers do not speak much while farming, but farmers can tell by the colour of the coffee cherry when it is ready for harvesting.
In short, the farmers consider their coffee plants to be like their own children. When walking towards your harvest, you will realize that this is one of the slowest places you might ever be in. The time it takes for coffee beans to mature to be ready for picking; the time it takes the family’s to pick the beans; these are all examples of why this is a slow place.
If you want to see the coffee gardens at Daringbadi when they are looking their best, you should time your visit for November through February. These months offer perfect weather for enjoying the cool temperatures and seeing the coffee cherries in their bright, vibrant red color. Be prepared to wear solid shoes since the trails are not very smooth on steeper grade areas. I recommend checking out the small shop inside the entrance area. This is where you can purchase some very delicious “freshly ground” organic coffee and black pepper before heading back home! This product will be far superior in quality to coffee and black pepper you would purchase at a major grocery store in a city.
So, when you go to visit the gardens, sit on one of the benches made of wood, take in the sounds of the wind rustling through the oak trees, and just breathe. You are in an area that wants you to be still and to appreciate the silent labor done by nature within its mountains.
