As you drive away from the black coal mines and heavy industry of Jharsuguda, your surrounding environment rapidly changes to cool, clear air, and then into the dense Sal and Mahua forests of Lakhanpur block. This will serve as your route to the Koilighugar waterfall. You will pass over the wide, slow moving Ahiraj River right before you can hear the sound of the waterfall crashing down. Just before the river cascades over the edge of the rock face it is able to form a large pool – this large pool is perfectly formed between the trees and resembles a hidden lake deep in the jungle.
Why is this location so special? The name tells its story – Koilighughar is the ‘cuckoo house’, and it is believed that cuckoo birds come to this location because of the thick forest canopy which keeps the pool ice cold throughout the summer months. In the early morning hours, the white mist hangs over the pool for several hours, creating a beautiful sight that reminds you that this is a place where nature still has a great deal of control over the area.
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ToggleThe geography of the Koiliguhar Waterfall is extreme and full of hidden secrets. The river begins high up in the Chhuikhanch Forest, and then falls approximately 200 feet over three large rocky ledges. It’s a very overwhelming feeling when you come down off of the granite rocks to reach the pool below. The rocks are dark, slick, large granite slabs, and they have been polished to a high gloss over time from the water flowing over them.
However, what most people do not realize is that the “heart” of this Jharsuguda waterfall, lies under the water. Directly under the fall, and in the pool at the bottom of the fall, is an ancient Shiva Lingam called Maheswarnath (also known as “The Lord of the 3 Tiers”). Whereas the water level during the winter would be too high to expose the Lingam, when the water level is low during the summer and the angle of the sun creates a miracle as the sunlight is refracted through the moving water, causing the Lingam to become visible from the banks along the river. To accommodate the older pilgrims in their travels to Koiliguhar, the local villagers have built a second temple next to the Shiv Lingam on land above the water at the small ashram of Saham Swami.
On the weekends of January, it’s a beautiful setting for a family to share a picnic at the Koilighughur picnic area of the canyon as family members use large cloths to lay out their picnic areas under the Mahua trees, & then unpack large pots of mutton curry & rice & then enjoy each other’s company. The atmosphere is very calming. Many of the Jhulna tribal (from the Kushmelba hal area) have a calm, graceful nature when interacting with the visitors, because they are not loud, or crowded. Many of them will use hand gestures, to point out the safest route over the rocks, etc. & will never raise their voice. The most memorable part of sharing a cup of hot tea while hearing the sound of water crashing behind you.It is one of the most rewarding things to do in Jharsuguda if you want to see how the local people connect with the earth.
If you want to see the waterfall looking its best, the ideal time for a visit is between November and February. Although the monsoon season makes the three tiers of the waterfall look beautiful, the current becomes much too dangerous for swimming. Getting to the waterfall involves a drive from Belpahar to the National Highway, turning right at the Govindpur Chowk, and taking a 6 km forest road to get there. If you’re going to hike down to the second tier of the waterfall, wear hiking boots with a rough rubber sole, as the trail down to the second tier is quite treacherous. There are no available water bottles or restroom facilities; therefore, bring your own water bottle and some trash bag to take the trash you collect while there.
The only items available for sale at the concession stands near the ashram are biscuits and loose tea. You can sit on the flat rocks and watch the water from the waterfall flow into the Mahanadi River for hours; this area is perfect for slowing yourself down and listening to the sounds of nature.
