Drive west from Balasore, and the quiet plain undulates gently. In no time, your eyes will be caught by the steep, tree-covered hills that tower over the landscape. This is Nilagiri, Balasore. At its base lies the tranquil Nilagiri pond, just a few minutes’ walk from the temple entrance. What’s special about this water?
Legend has it that the mountain rain, after being blessed by the forest herbs, flows into the pond. The locals advise you, first of all, to see the reflection of the hill in the water before meeting the Lord. It is a very effective way to quiet the mind. In the morning, when the mist covers the pond, it is hard to tell whether you are awake or dreaming.
The Nilagiri Jagannath temple is amply equipped to inspire one with a feeling of deep reverence and awe. A lot of people refer to it as the “Second Srikhetra”of our district. This temple created a very different feeling from the big city temples — It seemed as if it was very firm and stable. It was the Nilagiri princely state rulers who had this temple constructed ages ago. If you have a look at the temple now, you will find Niagiri palace standing right next to it. It is an imposing structure of stone and antiquity. Kings residing there were not only great rulers but also whole-hearted worshippers. According to local belief, Lord Jagannath here is the protector of the hills.
The heart knows what the signs don’t say that even when the world changes, these stone walls stay the same. To be honest, it could be a little daunting just to stand up there under the tall temple tower, but the fragrance of sandalwood and burnt ghee really makes one feel at home.
The villagers seem to be naturally inclined towards a slow, even dance-like movement. At the time of Ratha Yatra, the entire locality is filled with the scent of burning wood and flowers. The behaviour of the people is very orderly and restrained. They neither push, shout, nor compete; they just pull the ropes with their eyes closed in prayer.
At the sound of the evening bell, one gets a glimpse of the pulse of the village. A Balasore Jagannath temple is not just a place of worship; it is a hub of life for all the people living beneath the hills.
First, the best time to visit the Nilagiri Jagannath temple is during the winter. Then the atmosphere in Nilagiri is fresh and cool. Dress in simple cotton garments. While you are walking around the Nilagiri palace on the stone paths, don’t rush. Observe the ancient wall.
Facing the challenge, I had a desire to taste the local “Chhena Poda” from the small shops around the temple. It is cooked on a wood fire and conveys the forest aroma. Sunset at Swarnachuda Hill is the best time to pay a visit. The light changes the temple building into gold.
