Walking further into the teak forests of the Belpahar range creates a sense of coming away from the present world. Walking through these woods will eventually bring you to an enormous sandstone hill where the trees have leaned up against it creating a deep curve in the rock face. This is Vikram khol. Once you have passed through the great stone roof and departed from the sandstone hill you will come upon a smaller rocky pool located at the foot of the hill where rainwater collected during the summer.
This little pool of water is regarded as a secret or “little jungle lake”. Why did they choose this area? It is thought that early man would have lived here because it was situated close to fresh water that was in an area with still and clear water. The low lying mist that hangs in the air in the early mornings gives the entire valley an appearance of being in another time. It is an impersonal place, inviting one to be in silence before they look upon the first words that have been inscribed upon a stone written by a human being.
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ToggleBikramkhol Jharsuguda, which is located in western India, provides a stunning example of the many forms that ancient peoples used to communicate with each other. The natural rock overhang that forms this beautiful site has a length of 37 m and a fall of 8 m, creating a unique natural rock surface for painting on. One can almost think of a large stone canvas as you gaze toward the rising sun in the east from this site. The writing in this place is like a giant puzzle; the primitive human beings who lived here in 4000 BC made strange patterns with geometric shapes and made animal figures using red brown paint.
I visited this site on a cool Tuesday at the end of November. Looking at some of the stones at eye-level, you can see holes that have been used by the cave dwellers as places to keep their weapons or clothes by hanging them up with pieces of wood. The feeling of being in the same spot where families lived 6000 years ago is overwhelming. The heart is able to read what the signs say; that these symbols are the connection between the ancient Indus script and the earliest Brahmi letters.
This site is among many historical sites in Western Odisha and has become one of the most unique picnic spots in Jharsuguda to enjoy for those who appreciate the vast serenity of the deep forests. Many small groups of people can be seen on the grassy trails just outside of the barricade surrounding the forest department on weekends in winter. This area holds a very humble cultural feeling and is filled with a great degree of respect for its surroundings. Local tribal people consider the Rock Edict to be a sacred temple and often bring clay lamps and coconuts with them when they visit the base of the cliff. Tribal elders walk with slow graceful movements and provide the protection for this area without saying much.
This site is also one of the best places in Jharsuguda to see how people have maintained their culture through an appreciation of those that have gone before us, through an ongoing relationship of faith rather than through books.
If you want to get the most out of your visit to Vikram Khol, the ideal time to visit is between October & February. The air in the jungle is often crisp and cool during these months. However, if you’re going on the trek from Belpahar, be prepared for an uneven, narrow path that has many tree roots on it. Be sure to wear shoes with great traction and make sure you bring your own water & snacks from Belpahar since there are no shops within the boundaries of the reserved forest. When walking along the trail, remember to walk slowly. Don’t touch or scratch any of the ancient ochre painted walls. Finally, allow the cave’s silence to remind you how insignificant we are in the great scheme of things.
