The moment is realized at 4:45 AM and the world is buried in a thick, muddy silence. When leaving the place of accommodation and coming down the steep stone steps, I may see how the old city is only starting to wake up. I can feel the special Kashi essence in the air. There is a specific smell of the boiling ginger, smoke from fire and wet clay from the river.
Standing at the water edge and looking at the wide and flat eastern horizon I can see purple mist hanging over the Ganges. Then, like a smoldering fuse, one ray of deep amber lights up the sky decorating the tall amphitheater of an ancient building with the beaten copper.
Seeing the sunrise in Varanasi is not only a sightseeing experience. It’s a life-changing experience. The whole western bank of the river is facing the east which means this city has been built to greet the sun. Although the morning view at Benares ghats is remarkable almost everywhere, there are two places where it can be most easily enjoyed.
Assi Ghat: The Center of the Sunrise
If you are looking to see a sunrise which engages all your senses, you have to walk down to the tip of the riverfront crescent.
- Subah-e-Banaras
In fact, Assi Ghat is the Mecca for Subah-e-Banaras, a beautiful festival supported by the government of India to celebrate the heritage of Kashi. The event starts at around 5 AM in summers and shifts to 5:45 AM in winters. At sunrise, five young Brahmins dressed in orange perform an Aarti to awaken the sun. After they offer their prayers, the world of classical musicians opens before you, with musicians tuning their musical instruments.
- Launching the Dawn Cruise
If you’re looking for an idyllic place to start a classic boat tour, Assi Ghat is definitely the right choice. Positioned at the southernmost bend of the river, it gives you the chance to get onto a traditional wooden boat and set off for an exciting ride right at the moment the sun peeps above the horizon. A fair Varanasi boat ride price is rather reasonable as the price for the private boat usually fluctuates from ₹400 to ₹600 per hour after bargaining.
While you are gliding north, you will see the glowing sun bathing the great houses along the riverbank.
Panchganga Ghat: Silent Mystery
In case the vibrant action at Assi Ghat seems too bustling for you, you should definitely visit Panchganga Ghat situated in the peaceful northern corner of the crescent.
- Spiritual Experience
Panchganga Ghat is my favorite place for watching the dawn alone. It is a unique point of history where five holy rivers are believed to meet underground. The beauty of this place is enhanced by the absence of loudspeakers, tour buses, and professional photographers.
You are treated to the naked spirit of the river instead. At first light, you find yourself sitting on steep, huge stone steps, observing the long-haired sadhus doing silent meditation and the elders in the neighborhood doing their morning baths with no sound.
- The Geometry of Light
Due to the vertical shape of the buildings at Panchganga—with the gigantic sandstone wall of Alamgir Mosque—the early rays create an amazing spectacle. The low sun casts huge, dramatic shadows on the large stone pavilions. For storytellers and street photographers, catching the sunrise at Varanasi ghat from a high, northern point means receiving completely contrasting artistic images that do not resemble anything modern.
Practical Tips for Perfect Morning
Make sure your dawn trip will be smooth and successful by following these time-tested recommendations:
- Be On Time: The change from the dark blue sky to warm sunny rays occurs very fast. Always make sure you come to your starting point no later than 20 minutes before sunrise according to your weather app.
- Be Careful While Walking: The bottom stone stairs are always coated with mud. Wear sturdy sandals to ensure a safe passage.
- Always Have Small Change: The small roadside shops where the coal fires are lit early does not accept digital payment or large currency. Always carry some ₹20 bills so that you can easily enjoy your delicious clay cup of cardamom tea (Kulhad Chai) at the lake.
The Akhara Culture: The Mud Warriors of Kashi
Just as early morning hours by the river present a glimpse into an age-old regimented lifestyle that gets ignored by most passers-by, the traditional Akharas or the Indian mud wrestling schools sit hidden behind the steps of the ghats, like behind the Tulsi Ghat.
If you take the liberty to look through the arches of the gate at around 6 AM, you would see a community of Pehlwans vying for glory under the supervision of a master. The area where wrestling is practiced is sacred; the soil is technically prepared, deep hand-ploughed soil enhanced by mustard oil, turmeric, and buttermilk.
The tools used for training are traditional: huge wooden sticks called Gada for shoulder training, heavy stone rings worn around the neck (Nals), and thick ropes hanging from the trees. The scene of wrestlers covered in yellow, protective mud fighting in silence, with only the sound of breathing being present, is really captivating and emblematic of an ancient martial tradition that is still thriving within the modern city limits.
Which is better to enjoy the sunrise: sitting on the stone stair or going on the boat?
Both experiences provide contrasting visuals. Sitting silently on stone steps of Assi Ghat brings you into the heartbeat of the local community. You will hear the loud Vedic mantras and the warm rays of heat from fire offerings.
Does the winter fog affect the sunrise in the morning?
Yes, everyday thick fog covers the Ganges in the early mornings in the winter months including December and January. Although this fog completely hides the sunrise on the horizon, the river turns into a big white emptiness. Being present during the fog creates a perfect mystical experience, which seems better than the usual clear sky experience for many tourists.
Do I need to worry about the phenomenon in Benares ghats for traveling alone as a woman?
No, definitely not. Everything on the river bank is totally safe, calm, peaceful, and filled with people including families, religious people, and police officers. The atmosphere there is full of respect and solely focused on the morning routine. All you need to do is to be careful when it comes to your clothes and behavior, and you will be able to make the best of your trip at dawn.
