The cold morning air feels like a fresh linen sheet as I perch myself at the edge of the stone steps with a hot cup of masala chai in hand. It is 04:45 A.M. and while the rest of the city is still fast asleep, Assi ghat is stirring awake. A thin line of mist is hanging over the water as seen from across the river and the horizon becomes a soft wash of lavender and gold. Suddenly, the silence is broken by the loud and powerful chanting of Sanskrit verses from the nearby wooden platform.
In case the central districts of Varanasi are a hectic immersion into the essence of ritual, the southern bank of the river is a place where the city is taking a deep and slow breath. It has a very bohemian vibe that is rich in spirituality and creativity. If you really wish to grasp the way in which the ancient world blends seamlessly with the modern creative vibe, you have to visit this place.
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ToggleThe experience of this venue requires looking beyond the solidity of the masonry.
Local Assi ghat history is linked with female divine energy of fierce nature. As per the ancient text called Kashi Khanda, the mythical goddess Durga defeated the demon siblings Shumbha and Nishumbha and, after doing so, she plunged her huge sword into the land. With this action she formed the Asi River as a result of the impact. The junction of the Asi River with the Ganges is the ghat—spiritual border of the entire cosmopolis.
When you’re navigating from your lodging, having a grasp of the local geography makes it easier for you to plan your trip. If you’re situated in the newest commercial district, you should know that the Assi Ghat distance is about 7 kilometers from the railway station, which can be easily traveled in an auto-rickshaw at a cost of ₹150.
In case you’re already beside the river and want to go up to the theatrical part of Kashi, you will have to travel for about 4 kilometers by the river bank from Assi ghat to Dashashwamedh Ghat. I would suggest taking a walk there around sunset; it takes approximately 45 minutes and is considered one of the best street photography walks in India.
The incredible thing about this southern city is that you can bookend your day with two completely different types of spirituality.
Do not miss out on the experience of Subah-e-Banaras during your visit to this southern hub. It is the cultural experience which occurs on the banks of the river. The cultural program begins at 05:00 AM in summer and 05:45 AM in winter with reverence to fire. As the incense rises, music is performed by classical musicians playing different types of instruments to give you the experience of morning ragas.
Before you leave, make sure to catch this evening prayer at the river. Although it is a smaller version of the bigger prayer at Dashashwamedh, it is a more intimate and emotionally charged experience. The priests perform 80 ghat Aarti which is basically true worshipping in front of the fire in presence of lord Shiva.
Since there are not too many people around, you can sit within a few feet from the platforms without having to be elbowed out of the way. Note that Assi ghat evening aarti time changes according to the season: it begins at around 06:45 PM during the hot summer months and is gradually pushed to 05:45 PM in winter.
Once you leave the spiritual ghat, there is a whole neighborhood to explore along the river bank which is absolutely worth the attention of slow travelers, writers, and digital nomads.
The Cafe Culture
On leaving the steps, head straight into the mixed maze of wide green lanes comprising of independent bookshops and various restaurants. Make sure to try your breakfast at Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe, placed in front of the river steps. Its hot apple pie along with ice cream is legendary for its price of ₹150. If you are searching for a genuine local experience, visit Pappu Chai Dukan at the main intersection; a tiny place where politicians, professors, and travelers engage in discussions over their daily cup of tea for ₹15.
Spend a sunny day strolling through the yards adjacent to the river. This area is one that is inhabited by generations of potters and along with music schools. While walking through the narrow paths, keep listening very closely since in all likelihood you would hear sounds produced by a student learning to play the violin or a classical artist giving lessons in the sitar from behind closed doors.
