Camphor burning, sandalwood incense, and crushed marigold petals layer the air thickly as you sit on the old stone steps of Dashashwamedh ghat, surrounded by hundreds of locals and travelers from around the world. A loud blast from a conch shell pierces through the constant din of people and at that moment, everything comes to a stillness at the banks of the Varanasi Ganga.
The evening prayer, called Aarti, is much more than just a spectacle for tourists to photograph, it is truly a sensory explosion of pure love from all who participate. The Aarti has been a part of the spiritual life in Kashi for centuries, and if you are planning to attend, it is imperative that you understand how to navigate the logistics of this nightly event to capture all of its true enchantment.
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ToggleMany sites along the river have small Aarti ceremonies every night; however, the grandest and most recognized ceremony is held at the steps of the Dashashwamedh Ghat on the banks of the Ganga River. This ceremony is considered the best Ganga Aarti in Varanasi because of its size and precision.
The ceremony lasts for 45 minutes and features 7 priests dressed in saffron robes and positioned on raised wooden platforms along the water’s edge. The priests are positioned to perform a very coordinated dance or “cosmic dance,” collectively moving large 4-tiered brass oil lamps in circular motions towards each of the four directions.
As the priests perform the ceremony, the sound of heavy brass bells, brass gongs, and thousands of people chanting in unison creates a rhythm that is felt in the air. The look of the large columns of golden fire cutting through the darkened riverfront is enough for you to get goosebumps.
Timing is important for Ganga Aarti timing because ritual timing of Ganga aarti shifts with time based on the movement of the sun throughout the year. The priests conduct the main prayers immediately after it is dark, and this can change significantly throughout the summer and winter months.
Summer months: (April – September) Ganga Aarti time in Varanasi will occur later in the evening during summer because the sun stays up longer. You can expect the first conch shell blast to happen around 06:45 PM.
Winter months: (October – March) Ganga Aarti time in Varanasi will occur earlier because it gets dark earlier in the evening. Therefore, you can expect it to happen approximately 05:45 PM
If you are trying to schedule your daily sightseeing plans around your Ganga Aarti viewing, it is best to ask your guest house manager or a local boat operator about Varanasi Ganga Aarti timing to be sure to arrive before the beginning sounds of the gongs because there may be unexpected delays in traffic to get there in time.
The way you sit impacts how you feel about each experience. The two angles you can sit at have their own individual benefits and totally different visual stories.
Sitting as low as possible on the stone steps allows you to become part of the electric, raw energy of the local community. You can feel the intense heat of the burning brass pots on your skin; inhale the thick, sweet smoke and clap along with the crowd to the Sanskrit chants.
Choosing to hire a traditional wooden boat allows you to sit on the water giving you a great view of the priests facing the holy river.
If you are located in one of Varanasi’s bohemian neighborhoods south of the river (the Assi Ghat to Dashashwamedh Ghat distance), you’ll have no trouble navigating a four-kilometre path along the winding banks of the river. It’s a spectacular way to document the city in the late afternoon because you can do it all on the same continuous stretch of stone steps in approximately 45 minutes.
Instead of walking, you can take a scenic, one-way motorboat ride from one of the main transportation hubs early in the morning or later in the evening for approximately ₹200. If you’re travelling via one of Varanasi’s eco-friendly e-rickshaws, you’ll pay between ₹30 to ₹50 and will be dropped off at Godowlia Crossing, from which it will take you about 10 minutes to walk to the water.
