The morning breeze in the ancient lanes behind Visheshwar Ganj has an intoxicating smell of mustard oil, crushed black marigold, and offered sweet liquor. As you move through the stone gate, your ears are filled with a rapid rhythmic sound — the constant noise of peacock brooms sweeping over devotees. You are not at a normal worship place; instead, you are entering the official police station of the spirit world. Welcome to KalBhairav temple — the fierce center of Kashi’s ancient law enforcement system.
According to the local law, Lord Shiva may be the ultimate lord of Kashi, but KalBhairav is the fierce Kotwal or Chief Police Officer of Kashi. According to folklore, no soul can experience bodily life or death without getting permission from this deity. If you want your pilgrimage to be safe and spiritually fruitful, the very first thing that you have to do is to bow to this formidable deity.
Legends and Secrets: The Cosmic Kotwal of Kashi
To comprehend the unadulterated and potent power pulsating through the courtyard of the KalBhairav Temple, one has to learn the legend that placed this figure on the throne as the divine presence.
- The Defender of the Cosmic Order
The sacred narrative relates that, once, Lord Brahma was exceedingly proud of himself and Lord Shiva got furious in response to Lord Brahma’s pride and created a dreadful figure out of his own body—Bhairava—who got rid of Brahma’s head number five. Nonetheless, as the act of cutting off Creator’s head is called Brahma Hatya and is a great sin, it is the reason why the severed head remained on Bhairava’s hand forever.
Bhairava wandered the Universe for a long time trying to get rid of the sin. It was only upon his arrival at the holy land of Kashi did the head drop to the ground at a location that is now referred to as KapalMochan. After taking the load off his shoulder, Shiva made him the permanent protector of Kashi. One cannot think of visiting the KaalBhairav temple without this sacred site being visited as well.
- A Wondrous Place for Offerings
At the entrance of the Bhairav temple in Varanasi, you will find vendors offering not the common sweet pedas or the soft white flowers. They offer black threads, mustard oil lamps, liquor, and orange marigold flowers. This temple is one of those rare temples in India where liquor is presented to God, which is a part of Tantric worship, indicating the renunciation of worldly attachments.
Getting to the Shrine: Personal Insider Tip
To reach this vibrant temple, you will need to take a detour from the riverfront and into the busy market lanes of the old city.
- Getting to the Complex
The temple is located in the VisheshwarGanj area which is situated about two kilometers away from DashashwamedhGhat. The easiest way to reach the temple is by hiring an e-rickshaw that charges around Rs 30-50 from Godowlia Crossing to the retail market intersection. After visiting the intersection, it takes another lively five minutes to get to the temple by walking through narrow market lanes full of spice merchants and flower sellers.
- The Holy Silver Face
Once you enter through the innermost silver-clad door, you will see the appearance of the deity: a dark face sporting an extra-ordinary silver mask placed on large expressive eyes, along with the necklaces made of human skulls on orange clothing. It is only the silver face that the pilgrims can see. Found nearby are the priests carrying MorChhatri or peacock brooms that they tap visitors on the head and between the shoulder blades as a way of dispelling evil influences believed to be present.
When planning your visit to the ancient Kalbhirava temple in Varanasi, be sure to arrive in the early morning at 6:00 AM or in the late afternoon around 4:00 PM in order to avoid the heavy crowds during lunch hours.
The Rituals: The Black Threads and the Mustard Oil Lamps
After taking a look at the temple, you will step into the courtyard where a number of priests are available to perform religious rituals for visitors.
- The Black Thread
For a small donation of 20-50 rupees, a priest will tie a blessed black piece of cotton thread, called Kala Dhaga, around your wrist. This thread is believed to protect one from accidents and illness during one’s stay in Kashi.
- Lighting Lamps
In the outer courtyard of Kalbhairav temple, there are pillars adorned with thousands of lamps that burn mustard oil. Lighting a lamp here is thought to eliminate obstacles in a person’s life, and it only cost 20 rupees to purchase a lamp from vendors outside the temple.
The experience of visiting this powerful Bhairava temple gives the distinct experience of sharp contrast to the soft, calm, tranquil morning ambiance by the riverbank. You can witness the fierce ancient Tantric tradition that keeps on living beneath the modern exterior of Kashi.
What are the working hours of the temple?
The temple opens early at 5:00 AM and remains open till 1:30 PM. After that the temple closes for a short period of time during the noon rituals and comes back from 3:30 PM till 10:30 PM.
Can one take pictures or have any cameras or smartphones in the temple?
Compared to the Golden Temple passage, the security here can be considered less strict. Although it is prohibited to take photos or video inside the inner shrine near the principal deity, guests can keep their phones in their pockets or bags but should not use them in view of the priests and the worshippers.
Do we have to adhere to a strict dress code in order to visit the shrine?
There’s no particular uniform but it is important to wear modest clothing. The dress code applies to both men and women and requires them to cover both their shoulders and knees. Don’t forget to remove shoes at the shoe place outside the shrine for a fee of ₹10.
